Last year I reported (via the website of my friend Yiannis Karakasis MW) on the Microvinifications of Vouni Panagia. This article is an update on the last piece, with the 2020 release of the Kyriakidis’ most recent experiments to realise the character and full potential of Cyprus’s native grape varieties.
The following tasting notes are just a snapshot of the work that Yiannis Kyriakidis, his brothers and father, are pursuing. Bastartiko, Michailias, Maroucho and Spourtiko do not feature in this particular tasting report, but they are not forgotten. The family continue their experimental work in revealing the character of each of these grapes, using a series of varietal and winemaking combinations that serve to better understand each grape and their relative possibilities.
Alongside a number of other key players on the island, Vouni Panagia are flying the flag for Cyprus’s authochthonous grape varieties. Whilst this endeavour will for long be a work in progress, the qualitative and stylistic gains that they are making are incredibly encouraging. Along the way their footsteps are as light in the winery as they are in their vineyards: no new wood, native yeasts and spontaneous fermentations are all standard in their approach.
Here are just seven wines, including a blend, that display the exciting developments in Vouni Panagia’s dry-planted, limestone-planted, often co-planted, high-altitude bush vine vineyards on the edge of the Paphos Forest.