Pungently herbal at first – a very Mediterranean aroma, that gives way to apple and lemon zest. Quite full on the palate, with notable dry extract, gentle grip and a persistent citrus seam. Searing acidity makes sense of this volume, rendering it light on its feet. This is when that lovely Assyrtiko oyster shell and salinity appears on the scene. A superbly savoury wine that boasts an evolving and attenuated finish. Very useful with all manner of cuisine, particularly fuller-flavoured sea fish.
2018 Santorini Skitali, Hatzidakis
Grape: 100% Assyrtiko
Location: Pyrgos & Megalochori
Soils: Volcanic, pumice, igneous lava
Yields: 11 hl/ha
Age of vines: 40-80 years
Fermentation and maturation: all steel – 12 mths in tank on lees, 14 mths in bottle
Honeyed on the first couple of inhalations, though this morphs into an altogether more lemony bouquet. Expansive and rolling, but sporting a refreshing friction on the palate. There’s that honey again, almost like flower blossom, and a zesty persistence… Quite rapidly you begin to taste the sea set against a background of herbal delicacy. Whilst young, this is a hugely concentrated Assyrtiko that boasts volume, grip, savoury complexity and unrivalled refreshment. A food wine that could play the white or the red. One for now or the cellar.